One of the great benefits of living in the SYV is the nearby seashore, where you can park for free and hike for miles without seeing a soul. When the tide is right, under hot, ice blue skies, amid mussels dripping salt spume and blinking in the sunshine, flanked by an ancient beach – now a cliff – standing vertically at attention in a stark salute to geology’s miraculous mangling, foam at feet, kelp aswirl, we explore.